On his last leg – literally – of a summer tour, our writer finds two lesser-known Cyclades islands are full of mostly pleasant surprises, from the warm hospitality to swimming off deserted beaches
Dawn was breaking as I swam out from Paliochori beach. Twenty metres offshore, in the first rays of sunlight, I could see bubbles emerging from the sea bed. There was a roaring in my ears, like Poseidon’s kettle about to boil, plus some alarming gusts of warm water. Island of Milos, I thought, you are full of surprises: a volcanic Jacuzzi in the sea itself. Then I got out of the water and walked up the beach barefoot, straight into my second surprise: a thorn bush.
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